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Drought
by PETE DUNNE and KAREN WILLIAMS
Illustration by Debbie Shaw |
At first, it couldn't have been finer. One day of sunshine
following another. Barbecues, easy morning commutes, Little
League, and lots of garden time, unencumbered by the threat of
rain. But days became weeks. The sprinkler went from being a
horticultural supplement to a vegetative lifeline and then, with
reservoir reserves dwindling, the governor declared a drought
emergency. That was the end of the waterings, and as the roses
began to crisp, the newly planted (and very expensive)
ornamental saplings began dropping leaves, and the lawn, not yet
two years old, went from House and Garden plush to cornflake
brown, you began to ask yourself whether maybe there wasn't some
way to stop being a pawn to the weather. There is.
Into every life, some sun will fall.
On average, New Jersey gets forty to fifty inches of rain a
year-which is easily enough moisture to sustain a great variety
of native and non-native plant species in a temperate climate.
The key phrase is "on average," because New Jersey isn't
Camelot. There are wet seasons, like spring, and generally dry
seasons, like autumn, and there are wet years, where more than
fifty inches of rain may fall. And then comes a dry year, when
less-sometimes considerably less-rain than average falls. And
then we have a drought. Why so much fluctuation?
Local weather is affected by a number of factors, including
geography and air pollution (even large cities can influence
weather). But one of the most determining influences are "global
weather patterns." Climatic changes in the South Pacific or
Siberia can have a dramatic affect on weather on the other side
of the globe, causing drought in one place and an overabundance
of rain in another. It is dynamic. It is to a degree
predictable. But the important thing to realize is that there is
nothing to be done about it. Periodic drought is just something
that is going to happen.
Actually, there is something you can
do about it.
When planning the habitat around your home, adopt a
landscaping scheme that will be resilient in the face of
periodic drought. The key is a reliance upon native vegetation.
Native species are adapted to the variation naturally present in
the climate. They may not grow much or bear many flowers or
fruit during drought years, but they will survive.
The Game Plan
A truly drought-resistant landscape requires planning and
careful acclimation. The first step is to research the species
growing in natural areas close to your home. If you live on one
of New Jersey's barrier beaches, plants native to the woodlands
of the NJ Highlands will not grow well without lots of
supplements-water being only one of them. Conversely, rich soils
will produce lank, unattractive barrier beach plants.
You can't just plop plants in the ground and expect them to
be drought-resistant. Nursery-grown plants have either had their
roots confined to a pot or pruned so they branch compactly.
Plants in nature usually have either widely spreading root
systems (to gather moisture from a large surface area) or deep
roots (to tap moisture deep in the earth). Newly planted
specimens have neither of these. You have to help new plantings
grow these root systems by not coddling them.
This help is frequently hard for gardeners to give. You have
to water infrequently and deeply, resisting the urge to sprinkle
the plants daily. This is necessary because, if the soil surface
is constantly moist, plant roots will not spread. Looking at
your garden in the scorching midday sun of a drought, while the
plants are wilting, makes the fingers itch to use the hose.
Resist. Look again at dusk. If the plants are still wilted, then
get the hose. Plants frequently send water to their roots during
scorching midday conditions to prevent evaporative losses. They
send it back into the leaves when conditions moderate.
It is especially important during drought conditions to
minimize evaporative losses from the soil surface. Any moisture
that gets there should remain there for use by the plants.
Achieve this with mulch, which insulates the soil and helps
prevent water loss. The type of mulch is not as important as its
application. A four-to five-inch layer over the entire surface
of garden beds is sufficient. Just make sure you don't choose a
weed seed-laden material like straw.
Landscaping for occasional drought doesn't mean you have to
forego all moisture-loving species. If you have sites on your
property that are wetter than others, plant such plants there.
If you have an outside shower (many houses at the beach do),
plant your favorite moisture-loving species at its base. Even if
you don't have a naturally moist spot, concentrate the plants
into a single area so they will be easier to water and only one
spot in the garden will have to be wet.
You already have a garden and it's not
drought- resistant.
You can gradually apply the above ideas to your landscape to
make it more drought-resistant, but that will take two to three
years and it is dry now. You can limp along by mulching heavily
as described above. If your annuals and perennials are
constantly wilted, cut them back by one-half to one-third to
decrease demand on the roots. They will not bloom as heavily,
but they will be more likely to survive. You can save any
favorite plants by building a saucer of soil around them and
watering with dishwater or some other "gray water" source from
the household. Spend time thinking about how you can prevent
crisis during the next drought.
What about my lawn?
Lawn grasses don't grow under dry conditions. Most are of
European origin-not at all adapted to our hot, dry summers. They
would not be green in July without supplemental water even
during a year with normal rainfall. You won't be able to have a
green lawn with water-use restrictions in effect. The good news
is the grasses will just go dormant and begin growth again when
conditions moderate.
This is not a treatise on lawn alternatives, but since
drought will return periodically, you may wish to give some
thought to lawn as a landscape treatment. A lush, green lawn is
unachievable without supplemental water (and fertilizer and
other chemicals). Stopping the fertilizer and chemicals will
result in a lawn of grass, clover, and other plants that will
remain greener without watering.
Conversion of part of your lawn to a meadow populated with
native, warm season bunchgrasses (and wildflowers) is another
alternative. Grasses like little bluestem, switchgrass, and
indian grass thrive in our hot, dry summers. They don't make
good lawns, but they make great meadows. Meadows also have the
advantage of being more friendly to wildilfe.
Natural events happen. Droughts, ice and cold, windstorms,
etc. are all part of nature's pallette. If one tries to fight
these periodic conditions, the battle will never be over. It's
much more practical to work with nature.
Some key drought-tolerant species for
NJ
Perennials
- Butterfly milkweed
- Crimson-eyed rose mallow
- Lance-leaved coreopsis
- New England aster
- New York ironweed
Trees and Shrubs
- American holly
- Arrowwood viburnum
- Bayberry
- Beach plum
- Dwarf hackberry
- Eastern red cedar
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