Squirrel Wars
by Scott Edwards
 Perhaps the most frequently asked question pertaining to birdfeeding, the one phrased with the most anger and frustration, is: "How do you keep the #%&** squirrels out of my birdfeeder?" I am always amazed by the lengths that people go to thwart the furry little thieves in their yards-from the application of liberal amounts of various lubricants to the attempted removal of the felons. By the way, neither of these tactics works for very long. If you bear with me, I can actually relieve some of your frustrations with squirrels.
The eastern grey squirrel that frequents our yards is one of the most industrious and persistent creatures alive. And when it comes to tracking down food, it is without peer. Squirrels absolutely love birdseed, much to the chagrin and dismay of backyard feeders everywhere.
As with most things, location is the key. Your pole-mounted feeder must be located at least eight to ten feet away from anything squirrels can use as a potential launching platform. The feeder must be at least four-and-a-half to five feet off the ground, with a good steel squirrel baffle under it-not flush to the bottom of the feeder, but about eight to ten inches from the bottom. If you place the baffle too close to the feeder, rest assured that some decathelete of a squirrel is going to make the jump from the bottom of the baffle to the bottom of the feeder. The measurements are pretty much the same for hanging feeders. The feeder must be eight to ten feet off the trunk of the tree and the same distance from any other nearby perches. The bottom of the feeder needs to be four to five feet off the ground. Then you need to add a large steel baffle over the top of the feeder. Avoid the small plastic domes when searching for a "top attack" baffle. These won't even slow the squirrels down. It is important that the baffle be large enough to keep the squirrel from just hanging from the baffle's center and reaching down and around to the feeder. Plastic also has an annoying propensity for being chewable. (On this issue, please take my advice and use steel baffles-you won't regret it.)
For those of you who wish to feed the birds but find that the spot you wish to place your feeder does not meet the spacing requirements mentioned here, there are myriad squirrel-proof feeders on the market. It is important to note the difference between feeders that are squirrel-resistant and those that are truly squirrel-proof. Squirrel-resistant is a term applied to feeders that are made to withstand squirrels' attempts at destroying them, while squirrel-proof means that all efforts have been made to keep them from eating from the feeder.
There are two basic designs of squirrel-proof feeders. The first is a hanging feeder surrounded by a cage to keep the squirrels at bay. If this sounds like a feeder that would work for you, make sure that the seed reservoir is far enough away from the outer cage to keep the squirrels from just reaching through and removing the seed. These feeders need to be made of steel all around. I have seen caged feeders that have plastic tops and bottoms and cages around the outside. Once deterred by the caging, it is only a matter of time until the squirrels discover the plastic Achilles heel of this design and chew it into scrap. It is important to note that caged feeders, by their design, are species-exclusive. This means that larger birds such as cardinals, jays, grosbeaks, and woodpeckers will not be likely visitors to these feeders. This style of feeder is best used as a secondary feeder for this reason.
The second style of squirrel-proof feeder is one that closes off the seed supply when a squirrel lands on the feeder. These use counterweights or springs so that you can adjust the amount of tension on the landing platform. These feeders are always made of metal and are not as species-exclusive as the caged variety. My one caveat for these feeders is: What makes them very squirrel-proof tends to make them less attractive to birds. Birds cannot always see the seed in them, and are initially hesitant to use them. Be patient, and, if possible, sprinkle some seed on the landing and set it tight enough to stay open when they land. You will need to experiment with the tension on these feeders to find the optimum setting for conditions in your yard.
Recently, there have been a variety of products introduced to the birdfeeding market that claim to thwart squirrels by the addition of hot pepper (Capsicum) products. Most of these are not the hot pepper you and I sprinkle on pizza, but the concentrated compound that makes pepper hot; the active ingredient in pepper Mace self-defense products. I strongly discourage the use of these for many reasons. Although birds do lack the receptors to feel the heat on their tongues, it does not mean it will not have a harmful effect on their digestive systems. Also, if birds get this ingredient in their eyes, it can be extremely painful. This does not even take into consideration the hazards to people who either inhale it or rub it into their eyes after handling the seed. If your children help you feed the birds, by all means avoid using hot pepper products at your feeding station.
One last word about birdfeeding and squirrels. If you feed the birds you feed the squirrels-whether you like it or not. They are going to get some of your seed, so try not to let it bother you too much. Birdfeeding is supposed to be a pleasant pastime, relaxing and enjoyable; don't let the squirrels ruin it for you.
Scott Edwards is the owner of Wild Bird Centers in Aston, Pennsylvania, and he is an expert on feeding and attracting backyard birds. His column, "This Side of the Fence," appears regularly in the New Jersey Audubon magazine, and he authored the forward to All the Backyard Birds.
|
